[#台味甜蜜蜜 / The Sweet Taste of Taiwan] 老闆,來一碗滷肉飯!/ Taiwan in a bowl: Lu Rou Fan (English below)
說到法式甜點的 #台灣味,怎麼能不提萬華的 菓實日?
前幾年就為菓實日將台灣傳統文化融入法式甜點的創意心折,如果說巴黎有日式銅鑼燒店 Pâtisserie TOMO 作為日法甜點水乳交融之作的代表,(參見 #法式甜點學 p.156, 241, 336, 337),菓實日便似乎象徵著法式甜點真正能在台灣生根、與在地庶民文化結合開出的芳草奇卉。TOMO 以法式甜點技法重新詮釋日式甜點,外型融入了銅鑼燒與法式經典(如 Paris-Tokyo、檸檬塔、反轉蘋果塔、日本威士忌聖托佩塔等)、口味也兼有兩者之長;菓實日則不受限於單一類型糕點,代表作「紅龜」與「滷肉飯」大膽地用法式蛋糕(entremets)重新詮釋了他們心目中的台味與台灣精神。
數年前有幸品嚐過「紅龜」,一直對酒釀慕斯加紅豆餡既新奇又傳統的搭配念念不忘。這次趁著留在台灣的時間,又去拜訪了他們幾次,還剛好遇到他們在籌備線上課程期間,有幸飽覽饅頭主廚的精彩作品,並品嚐了這碗讓我一直好奇不已的「滷肉飯」。「滷肉飯」不僅有著法式甜點繁複多層的特質,還非常奇妙地揉合了台味無比的混搭創意:以蜜漬地瓜丁加焦糖醬模擬了滷肉飯的靈魂元素——滷肉與滷汁、米香白巧克力薄殼包裹著八角慕斯則成了晶瑩的米飯,最妙的是一匙舀起,還會意外地發現碗底的驚喜:肉鬆加自製酥菠蘿(奶酥、crumble)和生乳酪蛋糕體,最上方點上一片鮮綠的香菜,就變成了一碗技法完全是法式、但風味組合與精神卻100%台味的滷肉飯造型甜點。
前兩個禮拜我提到「是否有 #台灣神髓?」、「什麼是台灣神髓?」、「台灣神髓是否能被表現出來、又該怎麼表現?」,而菓實日的「滷肉飯」幾乎是不偏不倚地回答了這些問題。所有曾經必須對外國友人介紹台灣飲食的朋友,都會知道「台灣味」、「台菜」非常難以定義與畫出界線,因為台灣就是一個充滿了移民的島嶼、乘載了各種不同文化混雜的歷史,尋求「純粹的」台味很難不落入徒勞無功的下場。事實上台灣的活力,確實也來自於那種能將不同文化輕鬆且毫不做作地混搭、交融的自在。菓實日的「滷肉飯」恰恰體現了這種看似大膽奔放、但成果無比協調的餘裕。多達八層,且有香菜、地瓜、八角、肉鬆等台灣常見的料理元素,被妥貼地收納在這個「法式蛋糕」中。或許你無法一口氣分辨出每一種元素與層次,但它們卻如此完滿、歡欣地在嘴裡融合在一起,讓人不由得脫口而出「好吃」!哎呀,這不正是「台灣」和「台灣神髓」嗎?
老闆,再來一碗啦!
📌 菓實日目前正在休息準備下一步計畫中,門市並未對外營業。饅頭主廚與先生韞豐正在忙著籌備他們的線上課程,也有一些與桃園 雙口呂 Siang kháu Lū 文化廚房合作的實體教學。接下來會有小量對外販售的計畫,關心他們動態的朋友記得追蹤菓實日的粉絲頁;好奇這些台味甜點如何設計、製作,也可以了解他們傾囊相授的線上課程!https://tinyurl.com/y8cchelc
🔖 延伸閱讀:
#Ying的台味甜蜜蜜 系列
台灣味、台灣神髓究竟是什麼?https://tinyurl.com/y7ewoon4
從「亞洲甜點在巴黎」思考何謂台灣味:https://tinyurl.com/y36tprn8
亞洲甜點在巴黎的還魂與新生- Café Lai'Tcha 與 Fu Castella:https://tinyurl.com/y3pcspn5
👉🏻👉🏻 更多 #台北甜點店 影音,記得來 Instagram 找我玩:https://tinyurl.com/yb3a783m
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Kajitsu, a hidden treasure in Taipei’s Wanhua district, is a little French pastry shop that makes Taiwan-inspired pastries. Chef Mantou transforms traditional festive pastry “Âng-ku-kóe” and “Lu Rou Fan”, Taiwan’s national dish, into French entremets. It is not unusual that food adapts to local tastes when it travel overseas. It takes place in different forms. Take French pastries for instance, adding local ingredients in the classics is one way. For example, Japanese chefs may use yuzu to replace lemon when making their tarte au citron. Employing foreign skills to revisit or transform one’s traditions is another. Pâtisserie TOMO in Paris that combines Dorayaki and classic French pastries serves one of the best examples. In Taiwan, Kajitsu is another interesting case.
“Âng-ku-kóe”, “red tortoise cake”, used to be the most popular local festive pastry in old times. It’s shaped as a turtle and coloured in red (sometimes in green) since turtles are a symbol of longevity, fortune, and fame in Taiwan. Red is also the lucky color here. In Kajitsu, chef Mantou tries to transform this traditional delight into a French entremets. She keeps the sweet red bean paste in the filling and matches it with sweet rice wine mousse to modernise the traditional taste. “Lu Rou Fan”, braised pork rice, one of the most beloved dishes that can be seen everywhere in Taiwan, is the chef’s another brilliant creation. Mantou takes sweet potato confit and caramel sauce to create a “trompe l’œil” of the famed braised pork and its sauce, star anise mousse hints the indispensable spice during the braising, the rice crispy and white chocolate coating shape the bowl of rice, and the unusual combination of pork floss and cheesecake gives a little surprise beneath. A refreshing coriander leave on top takes you to the humid summer of Taiwan instantly. Lots of seemingly conflicting ingredients are grouped together, resulting in, however, an incredible harmony. It is a fascinating dessert that can only be created by a Taiwanese pastry chef as it parallels Taiwan’s history and reflects its source of energy: immigrants with diverse origins, cultures and values cohabit and learn to evolve together.
As Kajitsu’s pastries are deeply rooted in the everyday life of Taiwan, there are also other intriguing creations such as petits fours with motifs of old tiles and the sweet “Doom crackers” inspired by the role of the god ruling the Qing Shan Temple in Wanhua district.
Click on the photos and have a closer look!
🔖 Read more on this topic
What is the taste of Taiwan? What is the spirit of Taiwan? https://tinyurl.com/y7ewoon4
Asian pastries in Paris part 1: https://tinyurl.com/y36tprn8
Asian pastries in Paris part 2 - Café Lai'Tcha & Fu Castella: https://tinyurl.com/y3pcspn5
👉🏻👉🏻 Don't miss out my "Taipei pastry shops" featured story on Instagram: https://tinyurl.com/yb3a783m
#yingspastryguide #yingc #taiwan #tasteoftaiwan #菓實日
同時也有1部Youtube影片,追蹤數超過8萬的網紅Utatv,也在其Youtube影片中提到,【百變銅鑼燒看到傻眼!【試吃】巴黎最高級的日本銅鑼燒!挑戰傳統日式口味的日法大創造!Pâtisserie TOMO à Paris | パリの朋どら焼き試食 | Utatv】 ♥️訂閱UtaTV/ウタ看新影片: https://goo.gl/BIfbJy Uta的法國美食vlog又來啦!法國的旅...
pâtisserie tomo 在 Ying C. 一匙甜點舀巴黎 Facebook 的精選貼文
[Paris pastries / 巴黎甜點] 經典巴巴與各種重新詮釋 / Baba - classic and revisited (for English, please click "see more")
在各種經典法式甜點中,我一直有適應困難的就是「#baba」(巴巴)。
這個甜點的基本組成,是將 #加了葡萄乾與新鮮葡萄的布里歐許麵糰,在 #烤好之後浸漬在酒糖液中,最常見的是「rhum」蘭姆酒,另外也有其他如「Malaga」馬拉加甜酒、「Porto」波特酒、「Madeira」馬德拉酒等版本,經常會加 #香緹鮮奶油 做裝飾。
巴巴的命名來自 #阿里巴巴(Ali Baba)。沒錯,你沒有看錯,正是阿里巴巴與四十大盜的故事。十八世紀時由於政爭離開家鄉的波蘭國王 Stanisław I Leszczyński 後來在法國亞爾薩斯、洛林附近定居,他的女兒 Marie Leszczyńska 在 1725 年嫁給法王路易十五。Stanisław 的甜點師 Nicolas Stohrer 為了拯救太乾的布里歐許麵包(也有一說是亞爾薩斯當地的名產 kouglof 咕咕霍夫),靈機一動,以加了番紅花的 Malaga 馬拉加甜酒重新將其浸潤,另外還加上甜點奶餡與葡萄乾、新鮮葡萄等,創造了一個新的甜點。這個作品征服了身為美食家的 Stanisław 國王,傳說中他當時正沉醉於一千零一夜的故事中,所以將這個創新的甜點命名為阿里巴巴。
後來 Nicolas Stohrer 隨著國王的女兒瑪麗一起來到巴黎,他 1730 年在 Rue Montorgueil 上開的甜點店 Stohrer, la plus ancienne pâtisserie de Paris 至今屹立不搖,是巴黎現存最古老的甜點店。而他的拿手甜點巴巴,也風靡了全法國、成為經典中的經典。
根據我過往的經驗,法國人通常都相當喜愛巴巴,但我不但對酒精過敏、也不喜歡浸得濕軟的麵糰。還記得七年前當剛剛到巴黎沒多久,和朋友一起去一家二星餐廳午餐,餐後甜點上了一個浸滿蘭姆酒的巴巴、還附上額外的蘭姆酒依個人喜好添加。幾乎不喝酒的我,被這個簡直是是麵包型的酒瓶嚇到,從此對巴巴敬謝不敏。沒想到身在法國多年,我近來發現自己竟然已經可以欣賞蘭姆酒的香氣而不再感到噁心。最近因為經常路過巴黎銅鑼燒專賣店 Pâtisserie TOMO,每次看到他們的日本威士忌巴巴都非常心動,終於在本週下定決心品嚐了一下。
先說結論,因為我幾乎不喝酒、也不喜歡酒精的味道,所以品嚐過的巴巴非常少,這大概是目前為止「唯一一款」我能夠欣賞的、加了酒精的巴巴。銅鑼燒與布里歐許麵糰相較,口感更加厚實有彈性,而 TOMO 並未將整個銅鑼燒浸在酒糖液中直至軟爛,所以仍舊能夠享受原本的口感;以 Nikka 威士忌和沖繩黑糖調製的糖漿,有麥芽的醇香、威士忌輕微的冷冽,但絲毫沒有酒精的刺鼻。單純美好的香草香緹鮮奶油,以濃醇補足了口味的深度。雖然我只吃了幾口,就能感覺到臉頰微微發熱,但這是一款我非常喜愛、也會希望下次再來品嚐的甜點。
之前我在其他文章中介紹過 Pâtisserie TOMO,店內不僅有傳統的日式銅鑼燒、也有許多將法式經典甜點以銅鑼燒重新演繹的作品,這個威士忌巴巴銅鑼燒便是其中的代表作。點開照片,我另外附上 MORI Yoshida、des Gateaux et du Pain、Yann Couvreur Pâtisserie 的巴巴作品,讓大家一起欣賞經典的再創作。
🔖 延伸閱讀:
「重新詮釋」- 法式甜點經典重生、歷久彌新的秘訣:https://tinyurl.com/y5xenfqz
從「亞洲甜點在巴黎」思考何謂台灣味:https://tinyurl.com/y36tprn8
我的巴黎甜點店電子導覽:https://tinyurl.com/yxoee6ey
*****
Among all French pastries, baba has been a real challenge for me.
This classic is composed with a brioche made with raisins as well as fresh grapes. After it’s baked, It then has to be soaked in syrup made with hard liquor, rum usually, sometimes with Malaga wine, Porto wine, or Madeira wine, etc. Very often, it is decorated with Chantilly cream.
The pastry is attributed Stanisław I Leszczyński, the exiled king of Poland. Nicolas Stohrer, one of his pâtissiers from Alsace had the idea of soaking a dried brioche (or kouglof) in Malaga wine with saffron and added dried and fresh raisins with pastry cream. Legend says that during the time it was served, Stanisław was in love with the stories in A Thousand and One Nights and thus named the pastry as “Ali Baba”.
When Marie Leszczyńska married Louis XV in 1725, Nicolas Stohrer followed her to Versailles as her pâtissier, and then opened his own pastry shop “Stohrer” in 1730 on Rue Montorgueil in the 1st arrondissement in Paris. The shop remains today and is now the oldest pastry shop in Paris. His baba also has become one of the great classics of French pastries.
According to my own experience, French people seem to love baba. But I’m not a big fan of it since I’m allergic to alcohol and I don’t really get the idea of a soggy bread. I still remember my first time tasting a baba. It was 7 years ago when I just arrived Paris. I had lunch with friends in a Michelin two-starred restaurant and the dessert was a huge baba soaked thoroughly in rum syrup and with additional rum to taste. To me it was almost like a bread-shaped bottle of wine and I was almost traumatised. As I can’t drink, I don’t really like the smell of alcohol either. But after several years of living in Paris, I recently found out that I seem to be able to appreciate the smell of rum and some alcohols finally. So I was thinking that maybe I could give it a try when I found the Dorayaki Baba au Whisky at Pâtisserie TOMO.
Well, as I haven’t really tasted a lot of babas, I can’t say this is the best, but it is surely the top 1 among all what I’ve tasted. The dorayaki pancakes are well perfumed by the Japanese whisky Nikkai. Soft, moist but and not-at-all soggy. The texture of dorayaki is well-kept which is a big plus compared with the brioches that have almost lost its characteristic when saturated with alcoholic syrup. The Nikkai whisky has a really rounded and mellow smell of malt and the Chantilly cream adds depth to the tinge of alcohol. Though I could already feel that my cheeks started to get flushed after several small bites, it’s still a real delight that I’d like to taste again.
I have talked about Pâtisserie TOMO in my another article. It is a great pastry shop where you could find traditional Japanese delights as well as excellent examples of French classics revisited. The Dorayaki Baba au Whisky is one of them. Click to check the photos and you’ll find detailed description of those interesting baba revisits, including the one from MORI YOHIDA, Des Gâteaux et du Pain, and Yann Couvreur Pâtisserie, some of the best in the city.
🔖 Read more on related topics:
Revisiting classics, the “fountain-of-youth” secret of French pastries: https://tinyurl.com/y5xenfqz
How do you define the taste of Taiwan? My take on Asian pastries in Paris: https://tinyurl.com/y36tprn8
My Paris pastry shop guide: https://tinyurl.com/yxoee6ey
#yingspastryguide #baba #babaaurhum #dorayaki
pâtisserie tomo 在 毛毛's 吃美食愛旅遊日誌 Facebook 的精選貼文
#法國 #巴黎 #毛毛甜點 #毛毛抹茶
💚法國巴黎抹茶控必訪日本抹茶專賣店Pâtisserie TOMO💚
手刷抹茶與各式抹茶飲品、抹茶生八橋與抹茶麻糬、必點TOMO招牌抹茶銅鑼燒,跟上台灣日本吃到的完全不一樣,超好吃大推薦!
還有各式日法混血的法式甜點,價格雖然稍高,但絕對推薦抹茶控來訪TOMO,抹茶教主毛毛真心推薦
💚法國巴黎抹茶日式法式甜點美食咖啡廳推薦💚
https://ladymoko.com/patisserietomo-paris/
pâtisserie tomo 在 Utatv Youtube 的精選貼文
【百變銅鑼燒看到傻眼!【試吃】巴黎最高級的日本銅鑼燒!挑戰傳統日式口味的日法大創造!Pâtisserie TOMO à Paris | パリの朋どら焼き試食 | Utatv】
♥️訂閱UtaTV/ウタ看新影片: https://goo.gl/BIfbJy
Uta的法國美食vlog又來啦!法國的旅遊vlog大家最喜歡看什麼呢?
今天要介紹的是:Pâtisserie TOMO(Dorayaki)パリの朋どら焼き試食~
這幾家甜品店是一家創意的甜品店!是一家日本傳統的銅鑼燒店!但是融入了法國甜品的口味!非常創意好吃!深受法國人喜歡!
感覺TOMO是一個吃下午茶的好地方~點一個小小的銅鑼燒,點一杯小茶,真的是愜意的下午茶時光呢~
TOMO的銅鑼燒非常多變!有很多種不同口味的銅鑼燒!有傳統的銅鑼燒,還有創意的結合法國甜品口味的銅鑼燒,還有Mochi和一些手工甜品!Uta點的銅鑼燒是Dorayaki Paris-Kyoto!還不錯吃喲!還有檸檬的銅鑼燒呢,不過今天Uta吃得有點飽所以就沒有去嘗試了~也建議大家去試吃!
推薦大家去吃!
餐廳的名字叫:Pâtisserie TOMO
地址: 11 Rue Chabanais, 75002 Paris
希望大家可以去試一下這樣的日法結合銅鑼燒,體驗法國文化!
=============================
希望大家喜歡這個:
【百變銅鑼燒看到傻眼!【試吃】巴黎最高級的日本銅鑼燒!挑戰傳統日式口味的日法大創造!Pâtisserie TOMO à Paris | パリの朋どら焼き試食 | Utatv】
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